Microterroir - Best Expression of a Wine or Marketing Gimmick

I recently received the Microterroir Carmenere 2005 from Casa Silva in the mail. Between my love of Carmenere from Colchagua, Chile and my curiosity into the concept of "microterroir," I immediately had to try it. The concept of microterroir basically implies that the winery has idetified small areas within a vineyard that are especially suited to specific grape varietals. Casa Silva approached this concept in an incredibly scientific manner. I can't say whether or not their hypotheses on Carmenere in the Los Lingues vineyard were correct or whether the labeling is particularly novel marketing of a vineyard re-mapping and improvement project. I can say that the wine was exactly what I long for in a quality Carmenere. I let the wine open up for half an hour (the winery suggests an hour of decanting but I wasn't that patient. Who is?). The Carmenere was rich and plush with a nice tannic backbone and acidity to keep it from being "flabby" (flabby being one of those wine words that seems so odd yet so aptly describes that sensation). It's a wine best enjoyed on its own and will most likely provoke you to drink too much of it.

Midwest Wines Worth the Risk Taking

One of the toughest things about wine is not knowing what you're going to get, whether or not you're going to like it and still having to fork over (sometimes a lot of) your money for it. It's the reason we're less likely to buy wine from a region or grape foreign to us. This is also the beauty of drinking wine. Consider the Midwestern wines below (from my SwirlSavvy wine column for the Chicago Sun-Times) a little adventure for your palate.

Eating locally or regionally sourced food, be it cheese, milk, fruits and vegetables or meat, has become an incredibly popular movement for good reason. Fewer chemicals are used, produce is fresher, the carbon footprint is reduced and local farmers are supported. Plus, locally grown products just taste better.

Those same reasons should apply to drinking locally — and by this, I don’t mean increasing your frequency at the neighborhood pub.

While drinking locally sound like an achievable and enjoyable goal for beer drinkers given the plethora of top-notch microbrews coming out of Illinois and Wisconsin, drinking local wine if you live near Chicago may seem unlikely.

When we think of wine from the United States, California wine usually springs to mind, followed by Washington, Oregon and maybe New York.

But did you know that wine is commercially produced in each of the 50 states (although Alaskan wine is made from local berries, not grapes)? Wine from Arkansas or Idaho? Yep, they have you covered. We all can drink locally, after all.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying all of the wine is fantastic, or even palatable. But for Chicagoans, the good news is that wineries within reasonable driving distance don’t produce merely OK wines, they produce some great wines.

Look for Chambourcin, a relatively new, late-ripening grape perfect for Midwest temperatures, and Vignoles, also a lesser known grape that expresses itself well here in a range of dry to sweet styles.

Support your local winery and try some of my favorites below — as if you needed another reason to drink more good wine.


Prairie State Winery
Located in Genoa, about one hour northwest of Chicago. The winery has several of its wines available for purchase at local retailers. For my recommendations below, contact the winery or, better yet, take a day trip out to their tasting room.

Prairie State is run by Rick Mamoser, a former high school chemistry teacher. The winery specializes in Illinois-grown grapes and is making strides toward sustainable farming.

Some to try:

Vin Rouge ($19). A full-bodied, robust blend of Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin and Norton. Give this wine time to breathe and see how wonderfully it evolves over an evening.

Chambourcin Reserve ($16). A beautiful example of this regional grape. The oak aging gives the wine a toasted vanilla note and a soft, smooth finish.


Fenn Valley Vineyards
Located roughly two and a half hours from Chicago, in Fennville, Mich. Fenn Valley’s proximity to Lake Michigan and the resulting temperature-moderating effect give it what most great viticulture sites have in common.

The winery recently gained national notoriety. Its ice wine was served at the White House Governors Ball in February. If it’s good enough for the President and international dignitaries, it’s certainly good enough for me. Order directly from the vineyard by calling (800) 432-6265.

Some to try:

Edelzwicker 2009 ($12). The Traminette and Riesling blend is a touch off-dry, with soft floral aromas and a refreshing, not cloyingly sweet finish.

Lakeshore Demi-Sec ($8). A “best buy” semi-dry blend of Vidal, Vignoles and Riesling that screams fun and fruity; perfect for all those summer bridal events.

Meritage 2008 ($18). Rich and brooding with black pepper and dark cherry flavors, this traditional “Bordeaux blend” is less than 12 percent alcohol, a welcome change from similar-tasting Napa Cabs that hit over 16 percent.


Blue Sky Vineyard
Blue Sky Vineyard in Makanda opened in 2005 and is a leisurely five-and-a-half hour drive south from Chicago. It is part of the Shawnee Hills wine trail of 12 wineries in southern Illinois, which make the trip worth taking as a weekend getaway; you can stay at or near the winery’s Tuscan-inspired inn.

Try the estate wines below for a showing of the winery’s best efforts. Order wines online at blueskyvineyard.com or by calling (618) 995-9463.

Some to try:

Cabernet Franc ($19). The seductive smokiness of this wine makes it a perfect pair for coal-fired oven pizzas.

Chambourcin Reserve 2006 ($12). A bargain price for a wine of this depth. Get your hands on several bottles before word spreads.

Vignoles 2009 ($18). If you enjoy Chardonnay from the warmer regions of Australia, try this full-bodied white bursting with tropical fruit flavors.


Chateau Grand Traverse
Not all Midwestern wineries are small, nor are they all new. Started in 1974, Chateau Grand Traverse is one of the oldest and most well-known commercial wineries in the Midwest, producing more than 85,000 cases of wine annually.

The winery is on a mission to turn the area’s “up-and-coming” label into a respected, well-known wine region.

Due to its location in the Old Mission Peninsula of Michigan, Riesling is the grape best suited to the often frigid local climate. It’s the winery’s stand-out grape, whether in a blend or on its own.

Some to try:

2008 Dry Riesling ($13). A great example of how Riesling shines in this region. You’ll find aromas of green apple and grapefruit and a crisp finish.

2008 Ship of Fools ($14). A charming, easy-drinking off-dry blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.

Bodega Bernabeleva Garnacha - Autumn in New York

Bodega Bernabeleva Camino de Navaherreros Garnacha 2008 ($15, Available at Picada y Vino)

"Autumn in New York/You'll need no castle in Spain..."

And so goes the song. OK, so you might not need a castle in Spain, but you might find yourself needing this biodynamically produced garnacha from Madrid to ease the transition from a pretty decent summer into what's looking to be a textbook-brisk autumn in New York.

We found that this wine welcomes cooler weather but lets you hold onto your memories of warmer days - kind of a scarf and sweater to Priorat's full-on coat, hat, and gloves. Presenting itself with a luminous, blue-purple red appearance and fresh plums and herbs on the nose, then revealing blue fruit, bright acid and dusty tannins on the palate, this wine is as cozy with a plate of cured jamón, mustard and cornichons as it is with sausage soup.

As it as it opens up in the glass, the fruit gets a bit sweeter, a bit of saffron is detected, and we can't help making Châteauneuf du Pape comparisons, as we're wont to do when tasting grenache-based wines. This wine could handily hold its own against some of the younger, new world-style Châteauneufs, but it's definitely doing its own thing, Spain style. Plums more than cherries, raw almonds rather than marzipan ... fall rather than winter, let's say. It's loaded with flavor but without too much weight, which is what we want when we're still a bit in denial about summer's end. Hey, it's a lot easier to greet autumn in New York when you've got this bottle to take off the chill.

-written by guest blogger, Beth Baye

The Best $15 Bottle - San Pietro Lagrein

Learn about Lagrein and my new favorite $15 bottle of red - the San Pietro Lagrein. Lagrein might be a grape new to your ears (and mouth) but it's one to add to the list permanently. Lagrein (name of grape and wine) traditionally hails from Alto Adige in the northeast corner of Italy. Lagrein may not sound like a typical Italian grape (Sangiovese, Valpolicella) which could be because the area used to be part of Austria and is culturally Germanic. The area is also known as Sudtirol to the mostly German-speaking locals.

Despite its Germanic roots, the San Pietro Lagrein is a perfect accompaniment to Italian food. With it's intense berry and violets nose and gorgeous garnet color, you wouldn't expect the smooth, soft tannins that make this wine infinitely drinkable. It has that great kick of acidity that keeps it fresh to pair with food but isn't overpowering either. I had mine with homemade pizza and kept going back for more.

And for $15, it's definitely worth a try. It's such an overall people pleaser that I'd put in contention as my "house" wine. Got mine at Smith & Vine in Brooklyn, but you can buy yours online here at Morrell's.

Easy Rose Sangria Recipe

Try Swirl's Rose Sangria recipe - it's perfect for a hot, holiday weekend or outdoor party.

-2 btls dry rose wine (I love Crios Rose of Malbec or Kluge Rose)

-1/2 cup orange juice

-1/3 cup Grand Marnier

-1 cup white rum (or sparkling water or Sprite to cut down on the alcohol)

-1 cup sugar

-fruit of your choice. Swirl prefers sliced strawberries, thin peach slices, thin lemon slices, handful of raspberries or blueberries

-a few torn mint leaves for pitcher and for garnish

Combine all ingredients except fruit in a big glass pitcher (to show off the gorgeous color). Stir to sugar dissolves. Add fruit, refrigerate for at least 1 hr (2 hrs if you're patient!).

Sit back with some Bebel Gilberto playing in the background. Bendy straw optional.

Hugh Jackman, The Terrazas Reserve Malbec of Wine

Review of the 2004 Terrazas de Los Andes Reserve Malbec

I go through the Almond Joy "Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't" phenomenon with wine - sometimes I want my wine with a meal (lunch, dinner but *rarely* breakfast - what no late harvest viognier with your honey nut cheerios?) and sometimes I want it to stand well enough on its own. With the Terrazas de los Andes Reserve Malbec, you can drink your wine and eat with it too. The combo of hearty yet smooth brings up an unmistakable comparison to the lovely Hugh Jackman. From his Broadway moves and unbeatable Oscars hosting to his tough and muscular portrayal in Wolverine, you can enjoy a little Hugh, no matter what mood you're in. Like Jackman, this Mendoza wine is irresistable in it's classic Malbec meatiness with muscular structure behind the velvety tannins due to new oak aging. The Southern Hemisphere duo shares yet another bond - both women and men love them. So try this Malbec with a juicy steak or roasted lamb or just tipple it back on its own - that's what Hugh would do.

Amisfield Pinot Noir 2006 - the Shia LaBoeuf of Wines

Review of the Amisfield Pinot Noir 2006 from Central Otago, New Zealand

Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara and Willamette Valley may face the fan craze often received by teen heartthrobs like Zac Efron, but we beg you to explore the up and coming region of Central Otago, New Zealand for a real Pinot treat. To SwirlSavvy, it has all the allure of "It Boy" actor, Shia Laboeuf, with his much heralded potential as the next big action hero. And the one "It" Pinot Noir to check out from Central Otago is the 2006 Amisfield. Like Laboeuf's turns in Transformers and Indiana Jones, the Amisfield Pinot Noir has received top-notch accolades including its mention as one of Food & Wine magazine's Top 30 Pinot Noirs. The earthiness of the Amisfield Pinot is balanced by smooth, silky tannins - another reason to compare it to Shia's young good looks and gritty bad boy attitude. The wine has the structure to age well, like Shia whose potential is remarked upon often - if only he keeps out of trouble's inviting hand.