Napa Valley Itinerary - Must See's Part I

Planning a trip to Napa? This series of posts provides an itinerary with a

bit of everything; big corporate winery, small family, luxe, the downhome - plus, great food.

A cramped six-hour flight to San Francisco and an hour and a half drive later, and you’re transported to arguably the most gorgeous wine country in the country, Napa Valley. Other appellations vie for other “Most” superlatives, but Napa personifies the wine country image floating through your head when you daydream about retiring on a little parcel of (super pricey) land in California wine country while tending your own vines. Here’s a wine country itinerary guaranteed to give you a taste of all aspects of Napa.

Start the day with Staglin Family Vineyard, a small, family winery that makes you want to renounce your own kin and beg for adoption. Staglin is one of the valley's most prestigious properties, with amazingly warm hospitality and incredible wines. The tour and tasting are pricey ($50, by appointment only) but worth it for the quality of wines tasted and luxe experience. You’re welcomed with glasses of 2007 Salus Estate Chardonnay. Next, try the 2008 Staglin Estate Chardonnay ($75) and a series of cellar worthy Cabernet Sauvignons, the varietal for which Staglin is known. Take your time on the outdoor verandah overlooking the vines – yes, it’s that stereotypically Napa – but in the best way possible.

If you need another reason to drink their wine, know they’ve raised $725 million to support charities. Consider that $50 tasting fee well spent.

Swirl’s Wine Pick: 2006 Staglin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($175). Cellar it for 10 years.

Napa Valley Itinerary - Must See's Part II

Next stop on the itinerary (see earlier post for the start):


Drive North to Calistoga for seasonally inspired lunch at the Michelin Guide starred Solbar, the restaurant at the hotel/spa, Solage. If you’re lucky enough to be there when tomatoes are in season, get them. And don’t miss the fish tacos either.



Move down the valley to Titus, another family run winery of the downhome, authentic variety. It prides itself on being the Napa Valley the way it used to be, i.e., generations of families growing and making terrific wines at reasonable prices. Walk through the Titus brothers’ ranch home to get to picnic tables to taste through wines (free, tastings by appointment only) made by winemaker Phillip Titus, who also runs winemaking at Chappellet. The wines here are a veritable bargain considering the price of the highly awarded wines Phillip Titus crafts for Chappellet.


Swirl’s Wine Picks: Titus is known for their full-bodied, well balanced reds, but we couldn’t resist picking up a bottle of the 2009 Titus Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($20) in addition to the 2007 Titus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($41).

Napa Valley Itinerary Must See's Part III

Your Personal Napa Valley Wine Country Itinerary of Must See's continued:

Cap off a day of tastings in wine country with Silverado Vineyards' “Fridays on the Terrace” ($35, 5:30-8:00). It’s fitting this winery is owned by Disney; the views from the terrace are so darn perfect it seems as if someone painted an idealized, technicolor version of wine country with rolling green hills and a red-orange sun setting behind them. It’s hard for the wine and seasonal paired bites to compete with the setting, but it does.

Swirl’s Wine Pick: If you can get past the fact they’re partyly owned by a corporate behemoth, sit back and watch the sunset with a glass of Silverado Vineyards 2006 Estate Sangiovese ($28) in hand.

Soak up the wine with dinner at Bistro Don Giovanni, longstanding Valley go-to for big groups. Try any of the pasta dishes.

Last pieces of advice – hydrate early and often. And designate a driver. We want to see you Swirl-ing away again.

Midwest Wines Worth the Risk Taking

One of the toughest things about wine is not knowing what you're going to get, whether or not you're going to like it and still having to fork over (sometimes a lot of) your money for it. It's the reason we're less likely to buy wine from a region or grape foreign to us. This is also the beauty of drinking wine. Consider the Midwestern wines below (from my SwirlSavvy wine column for the Chicago Sun-Times) a little adventure for your palate.

Eating locally or regionally sourced food, be it cheese, milk, fruits and vegetables or meat, has become an incredibly popular movement for good reason. Fewer chemicals are used, produce is fresher, the carbon footprint is reduced and local farmers are supported. Plus, locally grown products just taste better.

Those same reasons should apply to drinking locally — and by this, I don’t mean increasing your frequency at the neighborhood pub.

While drinking locally sound like an achievable and enjoyable goal for beer drinkers given the plethora of top-notch microbrews coming out of Illinois and Wisconsin, drinking local wine if you live near Chicago may seem unlikely.

When we think of wine from the United States, California wine usually springs to mind, followed by Washington, Oregon and maybe New York.

But did you know that wine is commercially produced in each of the 50 states (although Alaskan wine is made from local berries, not grapes)? Wine from Arkansas or Idaho? Yep, they have you covered. We all can drink locally, after all.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying all of the wine is fantastic, or even palatable. But for Chicagoans, the good news is that wineries within reasonable driving distance don’t produce merely OK wines, they produce some great wines.

Look for Chambourcin, a relatively new, late-ripening grape perfect for Midwest temperatures, and Vignoles, also a lesser known grape that expresses itself well here in a range of dry to sweet styles.

Support your local winery and try some of my favorites below — as if you needed another reason to drink more good wine.


Prairie State Winery
Located in Genoa, about one hour northwest of Chicago. The winery has several of its wines available for purchase at local retailers. For my recommendations below, contact the winery or, better yet, take a day trip out to their tasting room.

Prairie State is run by Rick Mamoser, a former high school chemistry teacher. The winery specializes in Illinois-grown grapes and is making strides toward sustainable farming.

Some to try:

Vin Rouge ($19). A full-bodied, robust blend of Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin and Norton. Give this wine time to breathe and see how wonderfully it evolves over an evening.

Chambourcin Reserve ($16). A beautiful example of this regional grape. The oak aging gives the wine a toasted vanilla note and a soft, smooth finish.


Fenn Valley Vineyards
Located roughly two and a half hours from Chicago, in Fennville, Mich. Fenn Valley’s proximity to Lake Michigan and the resulting temperature-moderating effect give it what most great viticulture sites have in common.

The winery recently gained national notoriety. Its ice wine was served at the White House Governors Ball in February. If it’s good enough for the President and international dignitaries, it’s certainly good enough for me. Order directly from the vineyard by calling (800) 432-6265.

Some to try:

Edelzwicker 2009 ($12). The Traminette and Riesling blend is a touch off-dry, with soft floral aromas and a refreshing, not cloyingly sweet finish.

Lakeshore Demi-Sec ($8). A “best buy” semi-dry blend of Vidal, Vignoles and Riesling that screams fun and fruity; perfect for all those summer bridal events.

Meritage 2008 ($18). Rich and brooding with black pepper and dark cherry flavors, this traditional “Bordeaux blend” is less than 12 percent alcohol, a welcome change from similar-tasting Napa Cabs that hit over 16 percent.


Blue Sky Vineyard
Blue Sky Vineyard in Makanda opened in 2005 and is a leisurely five-and-a-half hour drive south from Chicago. It is part of the Shawnee Hills wine trail of 12 wineries in southern Illinois, which make the trip worth taking as a weekend getaway; you can stay at or near the winery’s Tuscan-inspired inn.

Try the estate wines below for a showing of the winery’s best efforts. Order wines online at blueskyvineyard.com or by calling (618) 995-9463.

Some to try:

Cabernet Franc ($19). The seductive smokiness of this wine makes it a perfect pair for coal-fired oven pizzas.

Chambourcin Reserve 2006 ($12). A bargain price for a wine of this depth. Get your hands on several bottles before word spreads.

Vignoles 2009 ($18). If you enjoy Chardonnay from the warmer regions of Australia, try this full-bodied white bursting with tropical fruit flavors.


Chateau Grand Traverse
Not all Midwestern wineries are small, nor are they all new. Started in 1974, Chateau Grand Traverse is one of the oldest and most well-known commercial wineries in the Midwest, producing more than 85,000 cases of wine annually.

The winery is on a mission to turn the area’s “up-and-coming” label into a respected, well-known wine region.

Due to its location in the Old Mission Peninsula of Michigan, Riesling is the grape best suited to the often frigid local climate. It’s the winery’s stand-out grape, whether in a blend or on its own.

Some to try:

2008 Dry Riesling ($13). A great example of how Riesling shines in this region. You’ll find aromas of green apple and grapefruit and a crisp finish.

2008 Ship of Fools ($14). A charming, easy-drinking off-dry blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.

New Zealand Special

I confess that for me, the best wine choice is always something from New Zealand. From the stunning scenery to the friendly people, it is no wonder that they grow some of the best wines in the world. They have great drainage from the hilly terrain, abundant sunlight and a pure aquifer to feed the grapes. New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are not a new story, but definitely a story worth telling again. Here are some shining examples in my opinion, some with a bit of a twist.

1. Craggy Range, Sauvignon Blanc "Te Muna Road Vineyard", 2008. $17.95. I am not leaving a vintage here because they are all good. The 2007 and 2008 are particularly noteworthy (across the whole country) but they are all amazing. When I open a bottle it takes me back. Citrus hints, kiwi fruit, flint, green apple, fruit forward on the nose. On drinking the fruit is still there, but it has a restrained quality that is not always a trademark of New World wines.

2. Mahi Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2008. If you can find it this is a great small production wine. The juice was fermented cool to retain the fruit characters and then held on yeast lees for three months to gain palate richness and texture. A small portion of this was kept in older French oak to once again add complexity. The Mahi shows a range of fruit characters, from citrus through to tropical notes. The palate has an elegant structure with a textural mid-palate and a long finish.

3. Seresin Sauvingon Blanc Marama Marlborough 2006. $26.77. Seresin is a great vineyard, with a small tasting room overlooking the vineyard sloping down from it. The Marama is biodynamically grown and hand harvested. They use wild yeasts, and age the wine in oak for 15 months. The bouquet is of pineapple, mushroom and citrus with a hint of buttered toast. The Marama is absolutely delicious, with vanilla, grapefruit and strawberries on the palate with a pleasing grassy finish. It really shows the care that the Seresin team put into all there wines. The flagship Seresin is great for weeknight specials when you just need to get away from the dreary weather. Like opening up a bottle of sunshine.

4. St. Clair, “Pioneer Block 3” Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 $18.95. This is another amazing vineyard from which almost any bottle is a good choice. When I visit the tasting room in Marlborough I feel like a kid in a candy store. In addition to the flagship Sauvignon Blanc, St. Clair issues, "Pioneer Block" bottles that are single vineyard wines that really show the breadth of terrroir that can be found in Marlborough. They do 11 Sauvignon Blanc Pioneer Blocks, one that is a standout is Pioneer Block 3. It has a fresh vibrant palate of passionfruit, gooseberry and crushed herb. The wine has a wonderfully full and rich palate with striking minerality. It is the crushed herb flavours that make the Block 3 a little bit more edgy than a traditional Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc.

I always enjoy these wine on there own to really take me back to this amazing country, so no food pairings here. There is so much more to say about Kiwi wine: the Bordeaux blends from Hawke's Bay or the unbelievable Pinots from Central Otago, but we can save that for the next installment. Enjoy!

Anu Pohani